CHRISTMAS IN MAY

Chuck Dudley
Travelin’ Arkansan
8 min readJun 11, 2017

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EUREKA SPRINGS AND THE PLEIN AIR FESTIVAL

Arkansas ‘Golden Gate’ Bridge in Beaver, Arkansas………the water was high

Traveling Companion back in 2016 had mentioned her interest in participating in something called a ‘Plein Air’ painting festival in our quirky mountain town of Eureka Springs. Plein Air means outdoor painting, using local scenes. This year in May 2017, the Eureka Springs School of the Arts (ESSA) presented the 2nd annual festival.

Traveling Companion’s Christmas present this past year was participation in the festival. So off we went on the 4 hour ride from Hot Springs.

On the way up, we checked out the river levels of the Buffalo River at Grinder’s Ferry………..it was high and had been higher.

Usually you can walk out on the shoals here

On to Eureka…….checked in at the Inn of the Ozarks, a Best Western. Not bad…..there are lots of places to stay in Eureka. Then off to the opening registration and reception.

The Artiste……

Several Ground rules for Plein Air painting. You can’t take a picture of the scene and paint from the picture, it has to be a ‘live’ scene. Watercolors, oil and acrylics were all used by the painters.

Maureen Alexander was our contact at ESSA, and she was a joy to work with and get to know. She also sings at local places in Eureka.

It was time for some rest and to begin to sample the many dinner establishments. It’s wise to check websites. Some places are not open on certain days, and being there on a Sunday to begin, we had to work a bit to find the places we wanted to sample. Of course, our veteran Eurekites, Claude and Vonda Holloway gave us several recommendations, all were top notch.

The first place we tried was the Stonehouse Wine Bar. It’s a small place on the main street coming into town, right across from the old Bank of Eureka Springs historic building. It was small, and sorta loud with the people there, but we sat outside and people just kept coming up to us and talking. The husband and wife owners were especially accommodating.

Nice Zin…….

Since it was only open on Sunday night when we were there, we went to eat a bite at the Grotto Wood Fired Grill. And what a treat this place was. Their small plates were very interesting, we had Quail Poppers and sliders……..you really have to have the quail, it was great. And they had a wine I had been looking for, for a long time. It’s a nice Cab, The Calling. The owner of the winery is Jim Nantz of CBS Sports broadcasting fame. The glass was expensive, but well worth it.

Grotto and The Calling……..
Inside The Grotto

After the long ride, this was enough for tonight. Monday would dawn cool and beautiful, and we would head to the Rouge Manor Castle at Beaver on Beaver Lake to begin the competition. But first…….as suggested, we had a great breakfast at the Mud Street Cafe. It is in the basement of a building on Main street (Hwy 23) on the way to the castle. Everything is great there, and if you are a coffee person, they have a lot of that!

Inside the Mud Street Cafe
Our first look at Rouge Castle

Here is a view of inside. They have great feasts here and weddings and receptions.

Now, time for painting….

Artiste at work
Spectacular view above. The water is really high as it covers the old railroad trestle.
Headed down to the bridge. Waded water about 75 yards to get on it.
Painters on the other side, and traditional selfie with castle in background.
A little Civil War history and we met Hot Springs artist Allison Parsons on the sidewalk………

It was decided that something in town might be a little be easier and more to the liking, so the iron crescent at the famous 1886 Crescent Hotel was picked to be the subject.

Great place for a painter. met a lot of nice people, and the Hotel put Martha on their Facebook page!!
St Elizabeth Catholic church is right behind the Crescent……..in the right picture are some of the 12 Stations of the Cross. Beautiful.
You can see Christ of the Ozarks from the 4th floor lounge at the Crescent.

The Painter needed rest, so I took off for an attraction called Pedestal Rock and Natural Bridge. It’s about 2.6 miles off Highway 62, easy to find and a good road. It DOES cost $5 to see it, but that’s okay. It’s about a half mile hike to see these neat rock formations.

Pedastal Rock and Natural Bridge

Painting done……….time to rest and then went to a really great place on Main Street called Local Flavor. Another good wine list, and a bone-in rib eye that we split was as good as we have had anywhere.

Local Flavor

Tuesday dawned cool again, and the venue for this day was the Blue Springs Heritage site on Hwy 62 West. It’s a really nice place with gardens and water, but way too much water from the White River. Unfortunately, the water was too high, but it was still a good morning…..here are several pix of the artiste and the site.

Interesting bluff and found a friend

Decided to try some Ark-Mex for lunch…..this place is called The Oasis and it’s in between a couple of buildings down some stairs. Enchiladas are their specialty. Good place.

After Ark-Mex, we decided to stay in town and went to a small park near some springs. We found a flower that needed painting there!!

One of the many spring monuments in town………………………………….painting the purple flower.

Decided to walk down the street to check out the Rouges Manor lodging and restaurant. Will probably try this place next time. In addition, stopped in at the 1901 Palace Hotel and Spa………this is definitely on the list for next visit. They have spa treatment called “The Works” which includes a one hour massage, hot mineral water tub bath, facial, and a steam in the old fashioned box…………all for $120. Seems like a good price to me!

Palace Hotel

Tuesday was to be our last night as work beckoned. We were given a recommendation for dinner this night at the Grand Taverne in the Grand Central Hotel on Main Street. It may have been the best recommendation of the week.

Anytime I get a chance to have walleye, I’ll take it. It was called red lentil encrusted walleye, and whatever that was, it was fantastic. Traveling Companion had salmon that was maybe the best prepared ever. As our recommender said: ‘I never knew what a good salmon dish was, until I had it at the Grand Taverne!’

Dining room and the entrance
Grand Central Hotel

Time to head back to Hot Water City….so we waited until this small local place called Nibbles opened…….and we enjoyed it. They make their own pastries.

Nibbles

Heading South down Hwy 65, wanted to stop briefly at the Gilbert Country Store in Gilbert, Arkansas. It’s billed as the coolest town in Arkansas……..mainly because it sets records (along with Fifty-Six) for the coldest recorded temperatures. It’s also on the Buffalo River. The folks at the store weren’t too friendly, though. Which is highly unusual for most places in the Ozarks.

Buffalo National River at Gilbert, and the Gilbert Country Store

Got a burger to go at Ferguson’s Store in St Joe, and headed South again. One more stop.

For years I’ve traveled this road, and I’ve passed this barn, and never stopped. Today, stopped and took a picture. Traveling Painter Companion will probably paint it one day. This barn is said to be one of the most photographed in the state. It’s just North of Marshall.

Hwy 65 barn

For 4 days we crammed a lot of activities in. Eureka Springs is a little odd town in Arkansas, but there is a lot to do. DO make sure you bring plenty of $5 bills. The parking is scarce, and is generally $5 for 3 or 4 hours. Having quarters is handy too. Plenty of out of the way places to stay and lots of different local eating places. It had been about 26 years since we spent any time there……..we’ll go back and try some more things soon.

Until next time………….

Travelin’ Arkansan

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BABB Band member, Manchester United, Lifelong Razorback fan, Paragould Bulldog. Travelin' Arkansan blogger. Arkansas Ambassador Class of 2019